Tuesday, March 24: Toulouse
Going a bit off the beaten path, Lisa and I went on an architectural tour of Toulouse around the basilica of Saint Sernin. Toulouse's boulevard used to be where its walls were. Hence why the word "boulevard" means walking along the ramparts. All the buildings beyond Toulouse's medieval wall were most definitely built in the nineteenth century. As we continued on our tour we saw a few more homes and buildings that were of the art deco period. These buildings just looked modern with straight lines and maybe a few curvy corners to liven up the flat palate. As we continued walking, we ended up at the place around Saint Sernin Basilica. One of the high school's administrative buildings used to be a Duberry mansion. The Duberry's were a well-to-do family who had a few ambitions ,one of them was getting noticed by the King. To get noticed by the King, one had to marry a very fine looking woman. There happened to be a fine looking woman in Toulouse (where the Duberry's were from). Soon after marrying her, Monsieur Duberry quickly sent her to Paris. She then became Madame Duberry, the favorite mistress of the King Louis XV. He was father to Marie Antoinette's husband Louis-Auguste or Louis XVI. Marie Antoinette historically did not have a good relationship with Madame Duberry because Marie Antoinette thought she was fooling around with the King (which she was). Part of this story comes from the home that is located close to Saint Sernin. Since the Duberry household was noticed by the King, they became rich and created for themselves a rather gaudy garden. This garden had a lot of fake items from fake trees to fake lovers sitting in the park kissing. A rather funny thing that they had was a mechanical bear that leapt from behind a bush. The tour guide said everyone came for miles around to see this ridiculous garden. All of France could come and look at their horrible little garden and laugh. Even though it was a rather funny story, to want to have one's wife be taken to the King and then make yourself a Chateau/Mansion with a rather sad-fake garden is quite odd. Ah, one's dreams have come true.Our tour was not quite over at the Duberry mansion. We ended up near the Strasbourg market, which is near the boulevard, to see a particular cafe that I fail to remember the name of. This cafe is where people came to have coffee after going to the market. It was also popular with the writers, who are often found typing away at their computers even to this day. Another interesting object we walked near was a fountain that was depicts a fictional woman who inspired a d'Oc language poetry contest. This area of France used to speak Occitane (d’Oc) which poets spent their time writing in. It used to be if a poet won the contest, he received a golden violet. These days there are fewer poets who can write in the ancient language and the prize has changed to a different flower but it is silver instead of gold. The fountain itself was beautiful, displaying its medieval woman carrying a violet in her hand and had neat little turtles and frogs below her that wanted to listen to her talk. The fountain is quite a mystical sight. All in all it was an interesting tour, even though I found the stories to be more interesting than the buildings that we saw.
Thursday, March 26: Lectoure
After picking up Melanie (a church friend) from Cornebarrieu, Lisa and I headed to the little town of Lectoure. It had the most intriguing Cathedral, its bell tour had three tiers, and it was rather impressive. It also had a neat interior but was much like the other cathedrals we've seen. After that we saw a funny little house with clarinets forming the doorposts and windows. Apparently the former owner loved to play clarinet so much he annoyed his wife and they had to put another level on his house, dedicating its design to the clarinet. As we continued on our little jaunt, we saw a rather disappointing fountain that used to have vibrant paintings, but, alas, time has erased them from the stone. We all were expecting some sort of statue or something, something more to catch the eye, but none was to be had. The next stop was a former tannery which probably supplied the royal household with leather goods. It had the standing of being a royal tannery, thus having other privileges that a regular tanner would not have. We then walked up an intriguing staircase which led along some of the former ramparts of the city. Next to the staircase was a metal cross dedicated to an evangelist that had been martyred in Lectoure. Toward the end of the road we found ourselves at the former executioner’s house. It was a towering building that was in a lot of disrepair. Some dogs barked at us as though we had encroached on their owner's property, even though we did not lay a hand on them, much less walk on to their owner's land. We also walked by an impressive building which used to house the Counts of Armangnac. It is now a hospital. Then we came back to the ramparts. It was a nice walk around an interesting town.We were not quite finished with our tour. We decided to also see their archeological Museum as well. We had to take a tour with a guide, who was very patient with us when Melanie had to translate. We saw some fantastic old relics. We saw several sacrificial stones, a head of a Gaul statue, Romanesque things and of course many sarcophagi. One was quite beautiful with fish scales, vines and branches. It was for a forty-year-old Christian woman, which was a ripe old age for a woman in ancient times. We also saw some very ancient artifacts such as fossils and the tusks of a woolly mammoth. The tour was quite interesting and informative. The town of Lectoure was rather interesting for a town somewhat in the country, but it was a nice little visit.
Friday, April 3: Pau
I had wanted to go to Pau since I had heard about it, even though I do not know what in particular drew me to it. Lisa, Katie and I were able head there and were able to see some neat things. One of the few highlights we were able to enjoy was the Chateau de Pau. It was fascinating to see a Chateau actually set up like the century it was from. The first room we saw in it was a dining room built to feed one hundred people. Chairs lined the walls waiting for people to sit and eat. Another interesting factor about this room was its tapestries. They were made by the famous tapestry maker of Goeblin. This was another place we had to take a tour and of course it was all in French, we had a written English translation, but it did not follow exactly all that the tour guide was telling us. He rambled on and on about the room and its wonders, especially about each particular tapestry that lined the walls. This was not the only room we got to see in the castle. We also got to see the living quarters of the families who made it their home. The living quarters had more beautiful tapestries and elegant furniture. One could definitely tell that a family with a lot of money had spent their time decorating and refining the rooms. We also got to see the bedrooms of the family. They were just as elegant, but perhaps not as big as one would think a castle would have. The castle was mostly used to house Napoleon III and his wife, so most of the things we saw were what they had owned and used. It was a neat sight to see.Next to the castle, we were able to see the boulevard de Pyrenees. We slowly walked down it but were unable to see the Pyrenees because of the fog. It was still a beautiful way to walk in Pau. Pau was good even thought it was short lived. I would not mind visiting it again to see what I had missed. Admittedly our problem at the beginning was that we couldn’t find our way around as quickly as we had hoped. But it was a neat city that is worth a visit.
Tuesday, April 7: Gaillac
Gaillac is a sweet little town with its own church and abbey. It is also known for its wine, so of course our last stop was the wine shop next to the tourist office. Well, as I am getting ahead of myself we took a walking tour of the town. We actually started near the tourist office (in the abbey and church area), but we did not go into those right away. Unfortunately, I do not remember the first building we went to. Early on in our tour we ran into this neat little pottery shop, unfortunately it was closed at the time. A little sign on the door said that if you wanted to go into the store just go down the road to meet the artist. Unfortunately we could not find what particular door the sign was talking about, or the artist was just not in town. As we continued on our tour we walked by a house that had been built in the middle ages with its attractive half moon door. Another interesting house was built with wonderful right angles making it an L shape. There are openings in the roof area which give a peripheral view of the city. Another interesting building was a convent which Nuns deserted during a plague, but they were still followed by the disease. The convent later became home of a merchant-politician who became very wealthy.There is a peculiar church in this town called Saint Pierre. It was taken by the Protestants who then turned it into a fortress. After that was done; the church was restored, leaving the lookout tower that was added to make it a better fortress. This shows that many things here in France have rather unusual histories. Another building with an interesting history is the Hotel de Paulo owned by the Paulo family who built it on the Abbey Saint Michel property. This family gave many members to be councilors of Toulouse. Also, no town is complete without a chateau. Gaillac has one called Faucard, it was not lived in by the Faucard family but by the Haute family, this is because of a marriage in the 18th century. It could only be viewed from the outside, but the outside was quite nice holding a beautiful park to enjoy and walk in. Gaillac had a lot of neat little tid-bits that could not be missed. It had a lot of interesting things to see.